![team losi prototype 1/5be team losi prototype 1/5be](https://assets.liveracemedia.com/media/images/14812_Inline_Photo_WtpRLJC.max-1000x1000.jpg)
- #TEAM LOSI PROTOTYPE 1/5BE INSTALL#
- #TEAM LOSI PROTOTYPE 1/5BE UPDATE#
- #TEAM LOSI PROTOTYPE 1/5BE MANUAL#
The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone.
#TEAM LOSI PROTOTYPE 1/5BE UPDATE#
Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!ĭriveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link. G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
![team losi prototype 1/5be team losi prototype 1/5be](https://www.peuziatracingteam.fr/Files/127397/Img/16/TLR252004x1200.jpg)
#TEAM LOSI PROTOTYPE 1/5BE INSTALL#
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards.
#TEAM LOSI PROTOTYPE 1/5BE MANUAL#
While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.ī-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.Ĭ-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slopĬ-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.ĭ-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.ĭ-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.ĭ-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.ĭ-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.Į-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same! Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.Ī-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!Ī-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears onī-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.ī-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts - Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:Ī-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.Ī-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.Ī-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and.Ī-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):